Thermosiphon Solar Water Heater

Since it is winter time and I have not been doing much gardening, I have decided to undertake a project to hopefully reduce my heating costs. I am still in the process of acquiring the necessary materials and so I have not yet tested this system. I plan to build my first one out of plastic materials and PVC piping. I would really prefer to use metal (for environmental purposes) but the plastic and PVC will be cheaper and easier to work with until I am certain this design works as planned.

First, a little understanding of what a Thermosiphon is:

 A thermosiphon is a relatively simple device which uses the natural convective forces of water. Essentially hot water rises above cooler water. When the water is channeled properly, you can use the rising hot water to create a circulation.


Next, how to use this to my advantage:

My house sits so that one side of the house gets a lot of sun and the other side is shaded with trees. My theory is that I can place the solar heater in the sun and the storage tank (see discussion below) on the opposite side of the house in the shade. I can connect the heater to the storage tank by running the pipes under the floor of my house (my house sits above grade). I plan to close off most of the vents under the house (I'll open them back up in the spring to allow for circulation) to minimize heat loss. I am hoping that the heat dissipation from the pipes will heat the under side of the house enough to reduce my heating costs. Since this system is entirely solar powered any energy savings will be a direct reduction to my heating bill. I can drain the system and open the vents under my house in the spring to prevent heating during the summer.

My Design:

As I mentioned earlier, I have designed this system but not yet built it so I am not certain it will work as designed. However, from my research this system should work. I am hoping to acquire the materials soon and have a prototype built before the coldest part of winter gets here. So here is my current design. I will not go into the details of the design of the solar heater or connections in this posting; however, I am sure there will be more discussion in the days to follow. I would like to make two notes about the design:

1. There needs to be a pressure relief tube included - this should be a pipe which extends out of the top of the storage tank and rises above the highest point of the system. This tube will allow for filling the system as well as an escape if the water heats to the point that the system begins to build up too much pressure.
2. There needs to be a drain valve at the lowest point of the system (possibly one on the heater and the tank) to allow for draining the system in the summer.

Composting: The Basics

The Basics of Composting:

Composting is a great way to utilize your free kitchen and garden scraps to replace expensive mulches and fertilizers. A simple composting bin can save you a significant amount of money and can be a fun and simple way to reduce the amount of garbage that goes to the landfill.

To Begin:

Start by building or obtaining a suitable bin. Personally, I prefer natural products, especially if I plan to use the compost on garden crops. I use a simple bin made of natural untreated pine.

* I do not recommend using pressure treated wood for any garden application the chemicals in the wood may be harmful to the plants and ultimately to the individual if the plants are consumed.*

I see a lot different dimensions for compost bins but really, just make one that is convenient from the materials that you have and the amount of waste you will be composting. Keep in my mind your personal limits when it comes to being able to "turn the pile." I prefer do my composting in a bin about the size of a bathtub with several holes of varying sizes drilled in the bottom for drainage. Of course you can just dig a hole or build a pile right on the ground, whatever method you prefer.

What To Use:

Once you have your bin or location to build your pile, start by layering the pile with alternating layers of "brown" and "green" wastes. The "brown" wastes, such as fallen leaves, twigs, dried grass small wood chips, shredded newspaper, etc., will add carbon to the mixture. The "green" wastes, such as fresh grass clippings, kitchen scraps, other garden wastes, etc., will add nitrogen to the mixture.

*Personally I prefer natural yard clippings, leaves, food scraps, etc. to use for my composting. I try to stay away from newspapers and other processed items as the inks and chlorinated processing of these items may add harmful chemicals to the compost.*

Do not use animal wastes in your composts as animal wastes requires much more strict monitoring of the compost to ensures it reaches and maintains an adequate internal temperature to kill bacteria and prevent disease. Also, do not use fatty, oily, greasy, milky foods or food wastes (such as meats, cheeses, milk, vegetables cooked in oils or butters) as these items will most likely become rancid and make for a terrible stench. Good compost should smell sweet and earthy.

Together, the nitrogen and the carbon combined with the microorganisms in the wastes will cause the inside of the pile to heat up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit.But to reach these temperatures (which is required to kill some of the bacteria and various plant seeds that are living in the waste), the pile will need the proper amount of water.

Water Generously:

Water the compost bin or pile generously until it is like a damp sponge. Be sure that you compost bin has adequate drainage. Water the pile as needed to keep it damp, but not wet. If the compost becomes wet and soggy it may begin to smell foul and the composting process will not work properly. Keep in mind the type of products in the compost as well; juicy kitchen foods (tomatoes, pineapples, etc.) will add moisture to the pile and the pile will require less watering.


Turn the Pile:


Periodically, you should "turn" the pile. "Turning" consists of using a shovel, hoe, pitch fork, or other device to mix the compost. I usually try to turn my compost once every one to two weeks. How often you turn the pile is really up to you.

The compost should be warm steamy on the inside when you turn it. If it's not warm and steamy, add more "green" wastes, this will increase the nitrogen content and cause the compost to heat up more.

How Long To Wait:

Depending on the amount of maintenance (monitoring the moisture and turning the pile) and the composition of the compost (i.e. large limbs and sticks will take longer to compost than grass clippings and fallen leaves), the compost should be ready anywhere from four months to two years.

*I like to set my larger limbs and such in a separate bin to allow them to soften and decay a little before I add them to my compost. This way my compost is easier to turn and it doesn't take as long to complete the composting process*

When Is It Ready

The compost will look like soft brown humus and will smell sweet and earthy. It's now ready for use in your garden or house plants.

Mexican Petunia (Ruellia Angustifolia) - Pictures

My Mexican Petunia's, aka: Mexican Bluebell or Britton's Wild Petunia:

Pictures by Kim Sellers

Yucca - Pictures

Just Some Pictures of My Spanish Dagger Yucca:

Pictures by Kim Sellers

 

 

Aloe (Aloe Barbadensis) - Poisounous

Is Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis) Poisonous?


While aloe vera is a popular treatment for burns and is included many types of products including sunburn creams and lotions, the aloe vera plant does have some relatively minor poisonous properties. Underneath the skin of the plant is a latex which can cause an allergic reaction to the skin and if ingested will most likely cause vomiting and/or diarrhea. In small doses, the poison in the aloe vera plant is relatively harmless to humans but it may cause an allergic reaction in some people.

When using the aloe vera plant as a burn cream or for other dermatological purposes, you should test the plant on a small section of the skin to ensure that a rash or dermatitis (irritation) does not occur. You can reduce the irritant (latex) in the aloe plant by properly preparing the plant prior to use.

Cut away the skin and layer of yellow juice below the skin, leaving only the actual gel of the inner plant. The yellow layering is the primary source of the latex which can cause irritation in some individuals.

Corn Plant (Dracaena) - Trimming

Is your corn plant getting too tall for the house? Before the corn plant reaches the ceiling it is best to trim it back. 



The best part is that by trimming the corn plant you gain a new plant. Here's my corn plant that I let grow way too tall.The small baby corn plant actually broke off of the large one when I let grow way too long in the house. I planted the baby one after it fell off of the top of the corn plant. (I know the leaves are turning yellow I think it's been getting too much sun since I moved it outside.)

So I decided to trim my corn plant back for the winter.

I typically start by taking a good pair of pruning shears that are large enough to cut smoothly through the stalk of the plant. Clean the pruning shears with some rubbing (Isopropyl) alcohol to help prevent infection of the corn plant.

Next cut the stalk of the plant to the height you wish to trim it back to. The existing (rooted) corn plant should sprout new leaves just below where you cut it.
 

You can root the top of the corn plant (part you just cut off) by placing it in some water or well draining soil (keep the soil damp until it is rooted then water the corn plant well, but let the soil dry to about 1 inch  below the surface).

Corn Plant (Dracaena) - Care

The Corn Plant (Dracaena), also referred to as a Dragon Tree or Ribbon Plant -- Plant Care and Growing tips:

Light: Prefers bright light but will tolerate low light. If the corn plant's leaves bleach or burn it's probably getting too much sun light. If the leaves turn dark, solid green and lose the yellow stripe down the center, the corn plant is not getting enough light.

Soil Conditions: Likes good drainage. It might be a good idea to use a loamy soil or place some pebbles at the bottom of the planter to provide drainage.Mixing the soil with peat moss may also help to provide the optimal soil conditions. The optimal PH range is 6.0 to 6.5.

Watering and Humidity: Water well and let the soil drain. Let the soil dry out down to about an inch below the surface before watering again. While the corn plant likes well drained soil it also likes humidity, so unless you live in a humid climate mist the leaves once a week or so and keep the plant in an area with other plants to help keep the air moist.  The roots of the Corn plant are located close to the base of the plant and the plant has a very shallow root system; when watering, place the water near the base of each cane to ensure adequate absorption of water. If the leaves begin to drop or turn yellow, the corn plant may be over watered, try watering less often (also check the lighting conditions).

Temperature: The corn plant likes average room temperatures ranging between 60° F and 75°F, (16°C to 24°C). Care should be taken that it isn't exposed to temperatures below 55°F (13°C).

Hopefully this will provide some basic corn plant care tips.

Corn Plant (Dracaena) - Poisounous

The Corn Plant, a type of Dracaena sometimes referred to as Dragon Tree or Ribbon Plant, is often referred to as a poisonous houseplant; however, the research I have found is somewhat conflicting as to if the corn plant is truly poisonous to humans or animals, and if so, how toxic it really is.

The ASPCA lists the corn plant as toxic to cats and to dogs with symptoms of: Vomiting (occasionally with blood), depression, anorexia, hyper salivation, and dilated pupils (cats).

However, the William E. Brock Memorial Library at Oklahoma State University lists the plant as non-toxic with symptoms of stomach-ache.

My take is that the plant is poisonous to some animals and not to others (or at least the symptoms are less severs). I recommend keeping the corn plant out of reach of small children and prevent your pets from eating them.

Worm Gardening Tip: Harvesting

So you have spent the time and effort to make a worm garden, now how do you separate the worms from your black gold?

A simple method is to build your worm garden so that there is a removable board or other object separating approximately one quarter of the box from the rest. Fill the larger portion of the box, leaving an open space in the other end of the box.

When the worms are ready to harvest, place fresh food and bedding / dirt in the open end of the box. Next, remove the board. Over a few weeks the worms will migrate to the fresh food. Now the nutrient rich worm dirt can easily be harvested.

Organic Smell Remover Recipe

Cat urine, dog smells, skunk odor, and other smells - Try spraying a solution of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and soap on the affected area. Use the following mixture:

• One half cup baking soda
• 16 ounces (2 cups) hydrogen peroxide
• 2 table spoons dish soap

Place the solution in a spray bottle and shake it well. Spray the affected area thoroughly and let it sit. Place a fan on the area to help it dry. I don't recommend any rubbing or blotting unless you have to.

For skunk odors try adding a bottle of vinegar to the above mixture.

Be sure to spray the solution on a small test area to try it out first. Peroxide may cause bleaching.